Outside the church again and look for the little wooden signpost:
(in case you can't read it it says "Public Footpath - To Bartlow Hills")
Here, reached by a rough, narrow path, with no more publicity than the rustic sign above, stand some burial mounds dating from around 100 AD. Not just any old burial mounds but the highest one in Britain, which is part of what was the largest group of such mounds to be found anywhere in Europe.
The largest mound is some 13 metres high. It can be ascended by a flight of wooden steps (to prevent erosion). Each step are about as high as in an average house staircase, which makes it about five stories high.
Originally there were seven "hills" but four were more or less flattened in order to build a railway through the site. That seems to be fairly typical of the fate of this largely ignored site. In 1815 one Busick Harwood had the site excavated to provide work for the unemployed but the finds were never properly preserved or recorded. In 1832 rather better investigations were carried out and cremated remains and a great deal of ornate and valuable "grave-goods" were found. But again much of the material has since disappeared. Even in recent times the hills haven't fared much better; they've been at different times in the care of both Essex and Cambridge-shire local authorities and have until recently been badly neglected.
This picture in an old guide book, even allowing for some artistic license, shows what has been lost.
Take care.
I am surprised that these tumuli have not been made accessible inside. Is it known if they are the usual barrow type graves?
ReplyDeleteWow.. that is impressive! The state I live in joined the union of the United States in 1889, so structures that are 125 years old are OLD by Washington state standards, even the east coast structures can date to the 1600s which is about as old as it gets in the US... but 100, well that is amazing! Love the history you shared...
ReplyDeleteWhat wonderful secret treasures you have shown us! I love wall paintings, the church of St Thomas in Salisbury has a great Day of Judgment. The barrows are simply amazing and the old pint so quirky! Jane x
ReplyDeleteBartlow obviously has a long history. I love the churches with round towers, there's one in the village where my son lives on the Norfolk/Suffolk border and there are a surprising number of them in those two counties - I'd no idea such things existed until Neil moved to Suffolk. The wall paintings make you realise how colourful churches must have been in medieval times - the dragon is great:)
ReplyDeleteWhat a lot of interesting history. It's great that there are still so many things left, even though some have been lost.
ReplyDeleteWhat an interesting village with lots of history. The wall paintings are wonderful especially the dragon and I'd love to climb those steps up to the top of the burial mounds - secrets and wonders indeed!
ReplyDeleteThose ancient wall paintings look exquisite John. You live in such an interesting part of the world and one of which I have little knowledge. Must go there some day.
ReplyDeleteIt's a shame the excavated goods have largely disappeared. Perhaps with today's methods, more excavations should take place without damaging the "hills." I live on the east coast of the U.S. In my county, "old" doesn't go back too much further than 1700. Further east in Philadelphia, "old" might go to the early 1600's.
ReplyDeleteancient hills--my family laughed when I looked for them near Cambridge--I have learned a lot from your interesting blog.
ReplyDeleteI love people who put such ineresting things on their blogs, I may never get to see them in the flesh but this is almost as good, and you fill in with all the lovely little details, thank you.
ReplyDeleteExcellent tour, John. When we see what has survived from past times it makes us wonder at what all has been lost. Jim
ReplyDeleteAnother fascinating and educational post John, thanks.
ReplyDeleteThanks everyone for your comments. In this country there are interesting things in just about every village and town - you just have to do a little research, get out there and take along your imagination!
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