Sunday, 9 March 2014

Towers And Steeples

At the end of my last post about the ancient town of King's Lynn I mentioned a conversation with a knowledgeable man from True's Yard Museum. This chat took place over the museum's scale model of the town which showed a few features that even I was able to identify. Such as....



Well, I could hardly fail to spot such an individual structure, but you're probably wondering what on earth it could be. Nikolaus Pevsner in his guides to British architecture describes it as one of the strangest Gothic churches in England. Usually known as The Red Mount Chapel, it was built in 1485 just outside the town walls and was a wayside chapel for pilgrims making their way to the shrine at Walsingham. According to my learned friend it was placed outside the walls for the benefit of those arriving after nightfall when the town gates would be locked. Gates like this....



Another building which was pointed out to me was the huge church of St Margaret. It was founded originally as part of a Priory which amassed great wealth during medieval times when King's Lynn was a major port.



It's so huge that many visitors call it "the cathedral" though in fact it's just a parish church, albeit a very big one! I'd had a look inside earlier....



I know we're supposed to be talking about towers and steeples, but there's some nice stained glass to be seen....





....and some rather fine wood carving....



But you can't see any towers and steeples from inside the church. Well, you could have done if you'd been here at mid-day on the 8th of September 1741, for a storm brought the steeple crashing through the roof and into the nave. Wisely, perhaps, it was decided not to replace the spire. But just down the road.....



....the same storm brought down the spire of St Nicholas's but fortunately it fell into the churchyard. This one was replaced which may sound foolhardy in the light of what had happened at St Margaret's. But there was a good reason for it as we shall soon see.



This odd-looking structure is all that remains of Greyfriars Priory, the rest of the building having been destroyed after the dissolution of the monasteries. It seems a strange oversight on the part of the demolition squad - but again there is a good reason. In fact it's the same reason as for the rebuilding of the spire. Both were 'landmarks' in the original meaning of the word, which is that sight of them enabled sailors to work out their exact position at sea, in this case to navigate the channel into King's Lynn harbour.

My informant also mentioned All Saints' Church, which he was very enthusiastic about though he didn't say why. I set out to search for it but even though I knew roughly where it was I failed miserably to locate it. All I could find was some very unattractive housing, but eventually after much perseverance....



As you can see it has no tower and is surrounded by a 1970s housing development. I stepped inside and was met by the vicar who was busy lighting candles, not for me of course but for some noisy six-year-olds who were about to descend on this oasis of tranquillity. "Suffer the little children...." I reminded him. "'Suffer' is the word I'm afraid," he replied, "but there's just time for you to view our most notable feature."



He led me to the beautiful chancel and pointed to the door that you can see in the picture. It leads to a small room which once served as an Anchorhold. Nothing to do with ships this time but the residence of an anchoress or anchorite, a woman or man who withdrew from society for a life of abstinence, contemplation and prayer.



There is a small window through which the recluse could see the church service...



Apparently you can observe a service from the anchorhold if you want to. I understand they let you out afterwards!

As children's voices approached I spotted this screen....



The vicar confirmed that it was very old, probably dating from the fifteenth century, but had been boarded up from view for centuries which had preserved the colour. What gave the clue to its age were the scratched out faces, defaced (quite literally) during the Reformation.



The children entered and, if not quite little angels, were every bit as friendly and helpful as the older residents of the town.


Take care.








Friday, 7 March 2014

Hidden Corners Of Old Lynn

King's Lynn in North Norfolk, or just plain Lynn to the locals who resolutely ignore the fact that it's been King's Lynn for over four-and-a-half centuries, is a town with a long and distinguished history. It had six monastic houses, it was once the third or forth largest sea port in England and had a large fishing fleet. Its former wealth is reflected in the many fine merchants' houses which have survived. Nowadays, despite being an important shopping centre serving a large area, it retains much of its medieval charm.


   Nelson Street and neighbouring Priory Lane
have many fine old houses.

Pilot Street (above) is nothing to do with airlines;
the pilot was the man who guided ships into the harbour.

'Tis spring!

One of many alleys leading between houses.
I couldn't resist poking my nose into them!

The Duke's Head Hotel on Tuesday Market Place,
one of two market places in the town.

An impressive, if somewhat battered and faded, sign above
Wenn's Hotel, parts of which date back to the 
early eighteenth century.

Part of a quadrangle named, rather grandly, Hampton Court.
Parts date back to the 1300s and contained
 a brewhouse and a bakery as well as a house.
By the 1950s it was deteriorating rapidly but 
has since been restored.

Another of those enticing alleys!

A crooked house on Pilot Street.

May Cottages stand along a very narrow
passageway leading from Nelson Street.

Beam ends exposed on an outside wall.
I saw several of these,
an unusual feature.

These old houses and warehouses have been
converted into art galleries and a restaurant.

Flowers in one of the parks.
King's Lynn has some fine open spaces and walks.

Well, there had to be at least one window photograph!

Built in 1605 and probably the last timber-framed house
to be built in Lynn.
It goes by the unusual name of
"The Greenland Fishery";
It was once a pub popular with men who fished those waters.

Another alley!

Ships' lanterns hang outside the
Crown & Mitre pub.
The 'S&P' on the sign probably refers to
Steward and Patteson's brewery,
though they went out of business back in the 1960s.

The entrance to Hampton Court (above).

But of the fishermen's cottages in Lynn's North End nothing remains
apart from these two which are now part of True's Yard Fisherfolk Museum.
Photography was not allowed inside but I spoke to a man
whose family had lived in the North End for 300 years.
He certainly knew his town and as well as suggesting other 
places to go he also was able to answer my questions about the place.
More next time!

Take care. 

Thursday, 6 March 2014

A Walk In Pictures


A fine day for a walk -
- boots, camera, map -
- two sandwiches and a waterbottle -
 - train to Biggleswade - through backstreets - cross the little River Ivel.
  

- a Robin sings - a muddy path - over the busy A1 road - through fields -


- skylarks sing on high - flooded gravel pits ahead -
- a place for migrating birds in a few weeks -


- tufted ducks and coots on the water -


- and a beautiful swan stands in the shallows -
- cross another road -
- into the smart parklands of Shuttleworth Agricultural College -
- a sign says "bull in field" -
- but there's no bull -
- a biplane flies over from Old Warden Aerodrome -


- down a path known as The Sheepwalk- and into the village of Ickwell -


- cottages grouped perfectly around the village green -
- ideal for cricket during summer -


- parts of the green are flooded after the recent rain -


- an oak tree dominates the open space -
- blackbirds sing and pigeons coo contentedly -


- there's a huge maypole too -
- then on to the neighbouring settlement, Northill -


- the church clock chimes the hour -
- too nice a day to venture inside -
- then it's up the hill and into Home Wood -


- some of the paths in the wood are under water -
- a muntjac deer skitters away through the undergrowth -


- the squelch of boots -
- overhead a buzzard calls-


- up a grassy slope to Highland Farm -
- horses graze -


- ascend gently to the Greensand Ridge Walk -
- follow it through trees -
- only occasional glimpses of a hazy view -


- a choice of routes back -
- I chose the only one I could find! -


- someone's been cutting timber -
- bizarrely a tawny owl is hooting at midday -


-catkins -


- the village of Old Warden -


- a thrush sings -


- a Swiss Cottage -
- or so it says on the gate -
- all the rage in villages built to house estate workers in the nineteenth century -


- all a bit too perfect for my taste -


- but there is a pub -
- which is how it should be -


- and another exasperatingly twee cottage -


- so it's up into the forestry plantation -
- noisy walkers behind -
- one of those irritating women who whinnies "I know, I know" at everything she's told -
- I duck into the trees till they've passed -
"I know, I know....."


- before long the sky is putting on a show -
- but the rest of the way back is a bit of a grind -


- I rather wish I could ride a horse! -

- Take care.