Saturday 22 June 2024

A Lifetime's Work

History's random and ragged path has left us a heritage that's full of surprises. Sometimes things turn up in places where you might not expect them, and at other times things survive through chance happenings which we can no longer fully explain. We've just been on a garden visit (don't panic - you'll see those pictures next time) and on the way home we'll take a short diversion, passing wheatfields and outdoor piggeries, to a onetime market town that is nowadays just a big village.


St Peter's and St Paul's church at East Harling is clearly a first-rate parish church which stands in a large churchyard which these days is managed for nature. Hang on a minute....lets have a closer look at that tower....


Architecturally it's called a flèche, a small spire made of timber and lead, but you don't see many as ornate as this, with miniature flying buttresses. Anyone living here would feel they were home as soon as they saw such a singular feature appearing above the treetops.


Like most English villages there's been a church here since at least Saxon times, but most of what we see here today dates from the second half of the fifteenth century and was financed by one woman (albeit with some financial assistance from at least two of her three husbands).


That lady was Anne Harling who was born here in 1426. Like many wealthy families they took their surname from the village on which their lands were based. She was the only child and heiress of Sir Robert Harling and his wife, Lady Jane Gonville. When Anne was just nine years old her father died in France.



Unlike so many important men who are depicted in full armour on their tombs, Sir Robert was actually killed in battle. Anne thus inherited some 23 manors throughout East Anglia. She was so wealthy that there was some dispute about who would become her guardian. Strangely enough it was someone you might have heard of - Sir John Fastolf, on whom Shakespeare based (very loosely) the character of Sir John Falstaff. Fastolf carried out the major part of his responsibility by marrying Anne to a wealthy man when she was just twelve.



Once she became an adult she began improving the church, rebuilding the aisles, erecting the fancy spirelet and battlements which we saw on the tower, and beautifying the interior. The wooden screen, which you can see in the above photo, was designed to enclose that corner of the building to serve as a chantry chapel for the tomb of her parents.



As you can see it's quite an elaborate structure which has survived the centuries well. It's worth closer inspection...



It must have been quite something when freshly painted. It also now encloses some later tombs, most notably that of Sir Thomas and Lady Alice Lovell....



This is a sixteenth-century memorial, very much in the pompous style of that era. They certainly didn't want the people of East Harling to ever forget them!



A handsome couple were they not?



Anne Harling, who did so much for this church, lies in the tomb shown above, with her first husband. There's much to see here, but I'll just show you a few more before we get on to the most important feature.



I really liked the lion armrest on these seats. They also have "misericords" or "mercy seats"; we've seen these elsewhere and, you may remember, besides folding down to serve as normal seats they also provide a perch for those who were supposed to stand through long sermons. They are recorded by British Listed Buildings as being from the fifteenth century, but they must surely have been extensively repaired more recently; the carving is altogether much too crisp and the lion far too realistic to date from earlier times.



There's a splendid hammerbeam roof in the nave which receives little attention in any of the literature; probably because it's so gloomy up there that it's very difficult to see. It's only when I brightened up that part of the photo on the computer that the details swam into view!



What we mostly came to see is that large East Window. You'll notice that there's a woman doing some cleaning and a red plastic bucket on the altar. They were getting ready for a "church tea-party" at the weekend. If we want to fully appreciate the window we'll need to look through a telephoto lens....


Annunciation

These windows were also paid for by Anne Harling, which means that they are from the fifteenth century and have survived the attentions of those vandalistic puritans, who destroyed so much elsewhere.


Nativity

We know how these windows were saved, but we don't know exactly when or why. At some time they were removed to the hall, presumably when it became clear that they'd be destroyed if left where they were, but was the intention to beautify the hall or to return them once safe to do so?


Adoration of the Shepherds (detail)

When they were returned they were put back in the wrong place. They were originally intended for the side chapels, where it would be much easier to see the individual panels than high up in the East window, where they are now.


Crucifixion

The windows were moved once again during WWII to prevent possible bomb damage.


Assumption

There are many more scenes from the life of Christ than I've shown you here. You can find them all on the exhaustive Norfolk Churches website, one of several places I regularly consult before visiting any churches in that county.


Robert Wingfield: 
second husband of Anne Harling

Ann's first two husbands are also represented in recognition of the donations which they made to her grand project. It's also known that there was once a panel to Anne herself, pictured kneeling at her prayer desk. But it was presumably badly damaged at some time and is no longer in existence.


fragments

Who knows, maybe parts of Anne's window are incorporated into this panel of rescued fragments. I must admit I rather like the mysterious abstract quality of these jumbled pieces.



Back out into the sunshine once again with a view across the churchyard wall to the Grade II listed Eastfield House, which dates from the 1840s - yours for £1,619,000 according to the latest valuation.




Take care.


32 comments:

  1. My mum was an East Harling girl. She is buried in the cemetery which is a mile up the road from the church. Her grandparents ran the village shop. It is a splendid church and East Harling is indeed a very big village. Thanks for sharing the photos. I live a few miles away and visit it regularly.

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  2. Wow. What an amazing place. Thanks for the informative (and beautiful) tour. It is reallly, really good to see a post from you. I hope you are doing well.

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  3. It is a very beautiful church with lots of exemplary workmanship lavished on its framework. Thank you for the visit.

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  4. Thanks for the tour and the historical account of the church, John. It’s great that it has survived through the centuries.

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  5. flèche is a word that I learnt from your blog today. So many wonderful close up studies of the architecture of the church

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  6. It is surely grand. Thank you Anne for spending the money on it and thanks to you, John for the excellent virtual tour. Glad to read there are more posts in your future.

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  7. Los detalles de este bello templo, son impresionantes.
    Feliz domingo.

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  8. What a beautiful place with so much history. I can’t imagine marrying off a child of 12. She deserved whatever fortune she accrued. She certainly left a legacy!

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  9. It is such a beautiful church, John. And so well preserved. Thanks for the tour.

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  10. You live in an area of beautiful churches John - thanks to the Wool trade I expect

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  11. Interesting history of this beautiful church.

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  12. a lovely church john me brother alan got married there as jan his wife lived in the village and we lived up the road in kenninghall

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  13. That is a beautiful building...such skills..and history... thankyou

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  14. Sure is fancy and well-kept. Your photos are so wonderful, John, and your narrative is always the best!

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  15. What a beautiful church, the effigies are wonderful but the stained glass is magnificent, it has to be some of the best I have seen. Most of the medieval stained glass I see in churches is fragmented I have only seen that remain whole but these take it to a whole different level. Thank you John for showing me

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    1. Yes, it's just a pity that they placed the glass so high up where it can't be fully appreciated.

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  16. Stunning church! Thank you for sharing the wonderful photos and the history of this magnificent building.

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  17. You do such a wonderful job describing and explaining the beauty you see. Thanks so much for the tour of the church and the history of it. Very interesting, as always.

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  18. Thank you, John. A wonderful church brought to life by your photos and narrative.

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  19. It is lovely to see a post from you. Such an interesting church with so much history. It is good to see the C15th window survived and I too like the window made up of jumbled fragments. Your photos are stunning and bring the church to life. It is always good to see a churchyard that is managed for wildlife.

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  20. A very interesting walk through this beautiful church. I enjoyed it sitting in my armchair with my morning coffee. Thank you for the educational narrative and photos.

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  21. Beautiful church and lovely stained glass windows. I'm glad the windows were saved. As always, fascinating history that goes along with the church. It's good to read a post from you once again!

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  22. What a wonderful and beautiful church. Thanks for sharing your photos and the story behind the church. Great post, John!

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  23. A bit of everything there - I'm almost tempted to cross the border to visit it but I've still got several 100 in Suffolk to go to first

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  24. extraordinary life of Anne Harling as evidenced by your beautiful report! magnificent heritage in your country ! (Strasbourg flèche built 1419 -1439)

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  25. Ah, what everyone before me has said. But my own thanks for a great tour of a beautifully crafted church. Loved the jumbled stained glass window! And your excellent descriptions!

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  26. Thank you for sharing your photos of this remarkable church. I marvel at the skill and patience of the artisans who created such detailed and lasting work. I'm glad you are able to be out on walks with your camera.

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  27. Hi John - it's so good to see such an informative post from you - I always love them and learn much. Amazing village, stained glass, fleche tower - what a beauty. Then the church and surrounds - England at its best, or perhaps I should say Norfolk. I'm very happy you told us about Anne ... also showed us such stunning artisan work reflecting how very talented our ancestors were. Yes - that jumbled stained glass window is fun ... a good jig-saw I'd think. I don't tend to do them ... but it just occurred to me. So good to know you and Les are up and about again ... I love your posts - cheers Hilary

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  28. Your guided tour of this parish church awakened me to details I would sadly have missed. Your image of the altar being cleaned made me realise just how endless would the task of cleaning be, in all old churches.

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  29. What an interesting place. Poor Annie, I can't imagine that she was married at 12.

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  30. I always wonder how they managed to built and create such wonderful churches and all those details...at that time. And those windows! Just everything about this place is wonderful.

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  31. I wonder if anyone has written a biography of Anne Harling? She must have been an interesting woman. That spire is impressive, and the windows are as well.

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Thanks for taking the time to comment. I'll try to answer any questions via a comment or e-mail within the next day or two (no hard questions, please!).