As promised last time, in this post I'll show you some more of my wanderings in the park and farmland surrounding Knebworth House.
The legacy of ancient footpaths and rights of way is maintained here, as in many other parts of the country, despite the all-powerful lords of the manor grabbing the area around their ancestral homes for their own recreation. Even today this is still rather inconvenient for the landowner, since the House depends for its survival on money from visitors to its adventure playground, dinosaur park, classic cars rallies and rock concerts, as well as those wishing to see the grandeur of the House and garden. All it can do is put up signs to ask walkers to stick to the public paths and, if they are tempted by other attractions, to pay up for a ticket.
The Church
I'd been warned that the church is often locked, but I was encouraged to see a couple entering by the lych-gate. It turned out that they were here to decorate the church for Advent and, as long as I removed my muddy boots, I'd be welcome to look around.
The gentleman was keen to point out the ornate carving on the pulpit - "seventeenth-century, Flemish" he said, and also informed me that the most notable feature was the side-chapel which was stuffed full of memorials to past owners of Knebworth House.
I had a good look around despite the feeling that I was interrupting some kind of family conversation between these cold, stony-faced ancestors.
The Lake
Like all good stately homes Knebworth has its ornamental lake, created by damming a small stream in the grounds. Unusually this one is at some distance from the House and surrounded by trees - not much chance of getting any help if some junior boatman got into trouble in the water.
The designated footpath skirts the lake without ever getting quite close enough to give unimpeded views. One wonders if this secluded spot would have appealed to the writer, Edward Bulwer-Lytton, as he sought inspiration for his novels. Or if the reclusive Lady Constance wandered here as she contemplated society's injustices.
The Deer
Besides signs telling me to stick to the footpaths I was also advised not to approach the deer as they are "wild animals". That's not quite true as they are confined by high fences to the park, but do live as wild animals nevertheless.
These are Red Deer, Britain's largest native species, and the stags can become aggressive, particularly during the Autumn rut, so I didn't approach too closely. Most of their testosterone-fired belligerence, however, is directed at other males and on occasion this can lead to the death of an old stag as he is deposed by a younger rival.
Monarch of the Glen no longer.
The Hamlets
The countryside hereabouts is bespeckled with small settlements of just a few houses, though often with the kind of Tolkien-esque names which demand investigation. Above is the pleasant hamlet of Nup End. But we can do better still....
These two isolated dwellings form the unforgettably-named Hogsnorton. Its name is nothing to do with snorting but much to do with hogs. The Domesday Book records this area as having pannage for two hundred swine. "Pannage" means woodland where that number of pigs could find sufficient food. So the name translates as "the northern farm where hogs are kept". It lies to the north-east of the village of Codicote meaning that the prevailing south-westerly winds would carry the unmistakeable piggy fragrance away from the houses.
And this, ladies and gentlemen, is Hogsnorton Lane which my detailed map, and a small sign erected by the county council, assures us is a "highway open to all traffic". Someone's havin' a laugh!
The Light
The leaves are mostly scattered by the wind now, with only a few obstinate oaks refusing to join in the seasonal striptease, but the oblique sun glancing off the land still provides beauty as we approach midwinter.
Apart from instructions to stay on the footpaths and beware of the deer, the signs on just about every footpath leading into Knebworth Park make one parting demand on the walker "Enjoy your day!" they chorus. Yes, I did.
Take care.
Great series of images and an interesting narrative. On the subject of paths, footpaths more correctly, I suppose, I have always been impressed when I have visited Britain at the number of footpaths that traverse private land as far as I can tell, and there seem to be stiles everywhere, and one can meander at will, provided of course one does not stray from the path. It was in this manner that I saw my only Tawny Owl ever. And by retracing one’s steps one cannot get lost.
ReplyDeleteYou're quite right footpaths do generally cross private land and the landowner is required to maintain gates and stiles to allow access. A Tawny Owl regularly "serenades" me from just outside my bedroom window in the middle of the night - if you want it you can have it!
DeleteBetter than a police siren or screeching tyres I say!
DeleteA most enjoyable saunter along those paths with you as guide! Loved the pig story! Sad for the old displaced stag, but he had quite a rack (as they say!)
ReplyDeleteBeautiful images....Now I will look for a chance to use the word "pannage"
ReplyDeleteEnglish countryside at its best... as we are used to see in your posts.
ReplyDeleteI had fun trying to google Hogsnorton Lane, didn't find it but I did find some of the names you mentioned. Some small Lanes around the House have arrows signed in them - does it mean there's only one direction of circulation?
In Nordic countries, the ancient freedom to roam has survived in perhaps its purest form, perhaps because in these countries feudalism and serfdom were never established. Unfortunately, there isn't much to see either... :)
I think you've found the roads in the park itself. During the summer months the house gets lots of tourists so they operate a one-way system to get them all into and out of the park more easily. Scotland has always preserved the right to roam and recently new laws have been passed in England and Wales which allows free access to mountain and moorland areas.
DeleteThank you!
DeleteA nice stroll through the beautiful countryside with a wonderful narrative. The deers are lovely to see and the final few photos give you a feeling of tranquility.
ReplyDeleteThank you John and have a wonderful evening.
Walking in such beauty must take away one's breath!
ReplyDeleteWe watch English mysteries/detective stories. Free access is often a conflict.
"Hogsnorton". Yup, someone had fun with that one.
Funny about the "highway"! I very much enjoyed the countryside tour. So different from my neck of the woods, and such a rich history.
ReplyDeleteThe "Hogsnorten" name made me laugh. Loved your last photo - so beautiful!
ReplyDeleteGreat scenes John. I do think you need some wellies though.
ReplyDeleteHow could you not enjoy such a walk on what looks like the perfect day John ✨
ReplyDeleteWhat a beautiful walk that was. You have made me fall in love with the countryside there. Also love seeing those Red Deer. Wow, they are gorgeous.
ReplyDeleteThe first and last photos -- my favorites! Hogsnorten is such a great name and its owners clever in the placement of their home.
ReplyDeleteAren't we lucky to have access to such beautiful and interesting areas? Your first photo makes the house look very Disney!
ReplyDeleteMy neighbor once raised hogs. In fact we recently had some feral hogs show up here. They are not pleasant creatures.
ReplyDeleteGorgeous scenic shots! That first one is a stunner!
ReplyDeleteQuite an interesting estate to walk around that. The church looks like it would be good to visit as well
ReplyDeleteA very interesting walk, it looks a lovely place to explore.
ReplyDeleteOh my, I should have not stopped visitng your blog, even if I was on break. I so love the photos and the stories....hubby and I have seen a place in Tennessee named Bucksnort, and then here in Indiana there is a Gnaw Bone....
ReplyDeleteI would love to be able to fish that lake! And though I love all the photos, I so love the next to the last one.
ReplyDeleteWhat a great post, as always! Love the photos and the info to go with them.
ReplyDeleteWhat a nice area! Love to see the nice wooden pulpit an the muddy path :-) And the hills. What a beautiful grass hills.
ReplyDelete