On the north coast of Norfolk there are seaside towns like Hunstanton and Cromer, while on the east-facing coast there's the resort of Great Yarmouth. These places capitalised on our desire for sea-air and added such attractions as fairground rides, crazy golf, bowling alleys, bingo, end-of-the-pier shows, Sea Life, Jurassic Journey and The World's Biggest Joke Shop. But we're not going anywhere like that; today we're off to Winterton-on-Sea.
Here, along the more remote, north-eastern shoreline they still have some tourists, but the local people are content with being beside the sea, wandering through the dunes, enjoying a pint in the pub and talking to each other (especially talking to each other) and assumed that any visitors would also find these simple attractions sufficient to their needs.
We drove down the beach road to the car park, where a man sat in a small, wooden kiosk to greet us - no ticket machine here and you can forget about paying with a card or a phone app, you'll need real money. It was here too that we encountered that rare survival, the Norfolk "now". Whereas most of us would say "I'm going down the road" or "I'm going down the road now", here it's "I'm NOW going down the road". But if you think the emphasis on "now" implies urgency then think again. So when the car park attendant told us "I'm NOW getting your change" we understood that he meant that once he'd finished his phone call, he'd do his best to fish out some coins for us.
A few fishermen still work from the beach and there is a rumour, not backed up by any solid research, that Winterton was long ago a seasonal settlement; farming people moving here during winter to make a living from the sea during a slack time of year. Hence it was Winter-town, or Winterton. To add weight to this idea just a little way inland you can find the village of Somerton - the Summer-town.
We're NOW going to stroll along the beach. I hope that will suit you too.
I had hoped we might find some seals on the beach, but this was our closest view of the friends whose company we'd enjoyed during our recent visit to Horsey Gap. It didn't matter at all, like the local people we were happy to wander along the endless golden sands with just the gently lapping waves to entertain us.
Not that the waves are always so placid; they can destroy cliffs or dump extensive dune systems along this stretch of coast, when whipped into a frenzy by winter storms. Huge rocks have been used to form breakwaters to try to control the sea's worst excesses.
Other smaller stones and pebbles add interest to the sands as we wander along looking for the path leading inland.
Just behind the beach there's a wide expanse of dunes and heathland, intersected by a network of rough, sandy paths. We can make our way back towards Winterton through this maze of heather, gorse and stunted trees.
Here we met a woman who was, I kid you not, searching for early butterflies. She was also interested to hear that we'd seen two pairs of Stonechats. She thought there were less of these smart little birds around these days, perhaps because there were more birds of prey, she suggested. She also told us that seals didn't come ashore at this time of year. I thought she was wrong there, but didn't say so.
The gorse continues to look more golden every day as we made our way back.
The mighty, seven-stage tower of Holy Trinity And All Saints church began to show above the dunes. Although the village doesn't make too many concessions to tourists it does have a small fish and chip shop, which was where we intended to get our lunch. We arrived a few minutes early, but saw the lady who runs the shop with her husband, "We're just NOW opening!" she announced.
And sure enough fifteen minutes later they did. We ordered our fish and chips and were told it would be ready in another quarter of an hour, "so we could have a nice little walk around", which we were happy to do. We found a sunny bench in a neat little public garden where we could come to eat our lunch.
We're NOW going to Horsey Gap to see if there are any seals there - just as soon as we've eaten this freshly cooked cod and chips, had a chat with a man with a dog (neither of whom appeared to have any particularly pressing engagements), wandered back to the car park and changed our boots. See you there.
Take care.
I'm just NOW thinking about writing a comment, but I might NOW just come back later!
ReplyDeleteFresh cooked fish and chips, lovely, but I wonder where are the seals to
ReplyDeleteHi John - what a fun post ... loved seeing the photos - the area, the myths or realities ... lovely day out. Thanks for taking us there - cheers Hilary
ReplyDeleteAs I come from Norfolk it seemed funny reading how you noticed now. I hadn't realised we say it but of course we do and it seems right to me. Well it would wouldn't it! Nice to see your pictures and words, I don't get up to the coast very often.
ReplyDeleteMust ask, did you see early bees round the gorse? Someone, in Ireland, was worried she had seen no bees for the willow catkins. The beach reminded me of the one near Lynn when we went to see the Seahenge wooden posts at the museum. The beach there was also as wide and long as the one at Winterton.
ReplyDeleteYes, definitely a few bees present. Seahenge was found on the beach at Holme-next-the-sea.
DeleteI am NOW very happy to have read this account of a tranquil corner of Norfolk. I have only visited Norfolk once and have quite vivid memories of a Northern Fulmar hanging in the air at the edge of the cliffs at Hunstanton. I also had a highly successful visit to an RSPB reserve, whose name escapes me, but it was too windy to see my target bird, Bearded Reedling, and to this day it has eluded me. NOW one day perhaps you'll go there and send me a picture.
ReplyDeleteTitchwell? I was there once with my brother when he hadn't been bird-watching for very long. The warden and several others were peering through binoculars and scopes searching for the elusive Bearded Tit or Reedling, when Les said "What's that on the reeds right in front of us?" You've guessed it...
DeleteThat's it, John, Titchwell! I obviously should have gone with Les!
DeleteThe weather looked perfect for a walk by the sea. Enjoyed your acknowledgement of the local phrasing of words. It's always good to celebrate differences.
ReplyDeleteThis sounds like a splendid way to spend the day.
ReplyDeleteA lovely walk on the beach! Lucky you!
ReplyDeleteI’ve seen seals here twice. Love them. Good luck with your quest.
ReplyDeleteWhat a beach that is! Sounds like another place to put on my to do list if I ever get over there again.
ReplyDeleteNow that is what I call a nice leisurely stroll - plus what sounds like really good fish ad chips.
ReplyDeleteAnother beautiful walk, John. I haven't seen a seal since I left Alaska. I used to like watching them, they are fun to see.
ReplyDeleteWhat a beautiful place to visit and stunning coast. Hope you had a chance to visit the church
ReplyDeleteA very pleasant area to explore.
ReplyDeleteInteresting place. I hope they keep it away from the tourists.
ReplyDeleteReminds me of the Lincs coastline
ReplyDeleteWinter-town and summer-town make sense to me.
ReplyDeleteIt always surprises me how much the coast there looks like the coast here, minus the churches. I hope you did get to see more seals there.
ReplyDeleteHow lovely, not only the views of your outing but the actual language usage of those who live in that area! Thanks for the treat!
ReplyDeleteSounds like my kind of place. Unfortunately, it might sound that way to many others.....hope it doesn't get crowded. Glad you enjoyed!
ReplyDeleteThat sounds perfect. When my late husband and I were last in the U.K. we were amazed how one could pull into an empty car park and someone would suddenly materialise with a bag over their shoulder wanting payment.
ReplyDelete