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Monday 15 July 2024

Young St James (And Old St Andrew)

I said last time that I'd show you Waresley's  Church of St James the Great. But there's somewhere else we should visit first.



Down at the end of Vicarage Road, just past the vicarage but before it peters out into a footpath leading between modern farm buildings, there's an almost hidden gate. It's lurking on the left of the above photo, under the deep shade of the trees.


Step through that gate and you'll find yourself in a narrow avenue of trees, at the end of which stands a tall cross.



The lines of trees mark the walls of the old church of St Andrew and the cross is where the altar once stood, while hidden in the undergrowth are graves of some of the former villagers.



Little is known about the original church except that, after years of neglect, it was blown down in a gale in 1724. It was rebuilt four years later in imitation of the chapel at Cambridge's Pembroke College.



That church lasted till 1855 when Octavius Duncombe decided to build a new church in a more central position. The old churchyard continued to be used for a while, though there's nothing to suggest it's been used for many a year. It must be a spooky old place on a foggy night!



Back at the other end of Vicarage Road we find the new church - St James the Great. Before we find our way inside there's something else to see - look over to the extreme left of the photo above....



....and you'll see another village pump installed by Mr Duncombe for the benefit of the people at this end of the village. There's an inscription to the right of the pump...



WHOSOEVER DRINKETH OF THIS WATER
SHALL THIRST AGAIN:
BVT WHOSOEVER DRINKETH OF THE WATER
THAT I HAVE GIVEN HIM
SHALL NEVER THIRST



We go in through some modern glass doors, installed to commemorate the millennium. I rather like the wooden door handles which form a floating cross when both doors are closed. 



If you're Octavius Duncombe and you want a new church right at the centre of your domain, you don't skimp on the project but you employ one of the leading church architects of the day. William Butterfield was one of nine children whose family ran a chemist's shop. He started out as an apprentice builder, but then studied architecture and soon ran his own business, becoming one of the most sought-after designers of ecclesiastical buildings.



My brother liked this window, as well he might: it's attributed to Edward Burne-Jones, one of the leading designers of the day. The stained glass here is said to be contemporary with the rest of the building, which means it's a very early work by Burne-Jones, before he and William Morris began making stained glass windows. However it is known that Burne-Jones sketched many designs for windows at that time and I'm guessing that this window is based on one of those early efforts.



Unusually, we do know who designed the font - as well as the pews and all the other fittings - none other than William Butterfield himself. He wanted the church to be "complete in itself and not at the mercy of posterity to be pierced and patched and adorned hereafter".


Some adornment is of course inevitable, and it seems to me that the architect left a few areas of blank wall to house monuments to the departed. This is the memorial to Lady E Caroline Duncombe, Octavius's wife.



The chancel is the most elaborately decorated part of the church. "Structural polychromy" is the architectural term and it was pioneered by Butterfield for his interpretation of the Gothic Revival. What it means in plain English is the use of many colours in the construction of the building, rather than painting it afterwards. Here the architect has used ceramic tiles to beautify the chancel.



It's worth having a closer look at the Mothers' Union banner which stands in the corner. Just about every MU branch has one displayed in their local church and, despite their frequency, I think this is the first one I've ever featured on the blog. I'm not alone; it's rare to find mention of them anywhere - a much neglected aspect of folk art.



The impressive east window is attributed to Gibbs. Again it was put in when the church was first built and was probably chosen by Butterfield.



From everything we hear it seems that William Butterfield wanted to have complete control over what the finished church should look like. Also you will have gathered that Octavius Duncombe was a man who expected to get his own way. So one can only imagine the conversations that might have taken place between the two men when, just as the church was nearing completion, Octavius decided that the church should have a mausoleum for his family attached to it. You'll have to decide for yourself who won the argument.



Here it is and experts agree that though it was not part of the original plan it must have been designed by Butterfield. But if Duncombe had expected something along the lines of other mausoleums in the area he must have been disappointed with this mean little effort. Inside there's no room for any monuments, just a slab covering the entrance to the family vault. And you remember that the architect had said that he wanted no piercings and patchings? He was true to his word for he built no door leading from the church to the new extension.

Or maybe I'm imagining all this and both men were happy with the outcome.


Take care.


25 comments:

  1. Tiles on the chancel walls must be a very unusual feature and they add a lot of colour. You are completely right about the Mothers Union banners - I shall make an effort to photograph them in future.

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    1. I did a search online to see if I could find out more about the banners and Suffolk MU have a selection of photos, but they are keen for people to send in more examples. You'll find their page here: http://www.musuffolk.org.uk/communication/diocesan-banners/

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  2. Thank you. I love that the old graves remain - and am impressed at the architecture of the church.

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  3. A green church. The architecture of the newer ones is beautiful..but I would be drawn to the trees

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  4. The stained glass window is looking very surreal

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  5. "Structural polychromy". Good description and how very innovative of Butterfield. Morris's studio of artists travelled widely. It is a modern church but already showing the change in ideas.

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  6. An interesting tour, John. Many of the local churches here display quilts made by parishioners, often the product of quilting bees where a dozen women get together and work on it, always ensuring that it contains a slight imperfection in one of the panels, in recognition that only God is perfect. This seems to align with the tradition of the Mothers Union banner. Ironically the local Mennonite churches feature the most intricate quilts, but the churches (called meeting houses) are absolutely plain, without adornment of any kind, and singing is all a cappella.

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  7. I love the second photo. It would draw me in there for sure!

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  8. I went off and had a good read about the Mothers' Union. I had never heard of it before. Sounds like something worthy to be a part of in today's world.

    I also wandered off to have a read about Octavius and am a little confused. They don't list him as a Baron, so he was the son of a baron and part of the family business I take it. It doesn't look like he and his wife ever had children, but they certainly took care of people. His legacy is strong still after 150 years. Which is cool.

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    1. Yes, they do lots of good work particularly in developing countries. You'll be surprised to hear that I went to several MU meetings - I used to give slide shows/talks to the branch my mother belonged to when their guest speakers cancelled.
      The title Baron Feversham passed to Octavius's older brother, William, on the death of their father. Octavius and his wife Caroline had two children, Walter and Maud. Walter inherited Waresley Hall after the death of his mother.

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  9. It was a surprise to go from the lonely abandoned site to the modern church.

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  10. I think the architect won on the family vault. I liked his use of tiles and colorful designs on the walls, and unfortunately floor tiles seem to have had some replacement, as the one shot that includes them shows not a consistent pattern. I still want to know if once a church/ruin is no longer used, but there are burial grounds, is it still consecrated holy land?

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    1. In theory once a church or its grounds are consecrated they are consecrated forever. However there is a process where places can be de-consecrated if the bishop decides that they are no longer serving any religious purpose. Here the ground is still consecrated and there's a sign asking visitors to treat the site with respect.

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  11. I usually expect to see buildings older than anything here where I live but I realized that church is younger than my house which was built in 1839. The church is lovely and the stained glass windows are so very colorful. I'll be soon sharing photos of the Protestant churches I visited in Switzerland which with the Reformation took out the splendor and now look very plain.

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  12. That round window--is it a rose window?-- is like looking through a kaleidoscope! Such beauty in this church. Butterfield's attention to detail is impressive. Like gz, the green church in the wood calls to me. Magical place.

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  13. I love that second photo, too...sure wish I could be there in real life. I would so love to see some of the churches you show in real life. They are so beautiful. Now I am off to see what a Mother's Union banner is...

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  14. I have never heard of Mothers Union. It must be a British thing.
    Butterfield made sure he got the whole place done the way he wanted it to be.

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  15. El sendero muestra un precioso verdor y la iglesia es preciosa.
    Un abrazo.

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  16. Thank you once again John for a lovely tour of the graveyard and then the church. I have never heard of ceramic tiles used in a church before. Reading about the Mothers' Union banner sent me looking up the church of St. Peter and St. Paul's in Lingfield where I grew up. I always get very nostalgic reading your posts. I do hope you are keeping well.

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  17. You find some wonderful places John. This is a beautiful church with lots of lovely architectural details. The glass door is very nice.

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  18. The stained glass windows are stunning.

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  19. Horror film vibes in the first few shots

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  20. Lovely church, the stained glass is beautiful. I do like how they fitted up the mausoleum

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  21. Hi John - how amazing ... two delightful churches - I love the one in the trees ...it seemed ethereal to me and oh how i'd love to visit. Also Butterfield's design and take on his instructions ... what an interesting church - out and in. Certainly Octavius' family life is one of those befuddling ones we tend to have here in the UK - but he apparently did good here ... and enjoyed family life with his wife! Cheers Hilary

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Thanks for taking the time to comment. I'll try to answer any questions via a comment or e-mail within the next day or two (no hard questions, please!).