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Sunday, 17 September 2023

River Life


Like these young swans, my brother Les and I spent our youth growing up near a river. Our recent walk along the River Stour to Flatford Mill reminded us both just how much we enjoyed a ramble through grassy meadows alongside gently flowing waters.



This time we started off at Godmanchester Nature Reserve in the valley of the Great Ouse. The nature that I was most interested in were the lovely ripe blackberries growing in the hedgerows; I left these over-ripe ones to the Red Admiral butterflies.



The Great Ouse rises from several springs in Northamptonshire and flows along in a perfectly respectable way, gathering the odd tributary stream here and there, till it reaches Brampton. Then it starts to get unruly, dividing and subdividing into several channels some of which later reunite, only to split off into more channels further downstream. The section pictured above is known as Cook's Stream, but it's all part of the Ouse. By the time they reach St Ives the various streams have settled their differences and flow onwards as one.



We rejoined the main river and could soon look across to Hartford Marina. The lower brick-built gable end is Hartford Mill, which isn't a mill at all, but a pub which serves good value meals. We'd be going there after we'd finished our walk.



But I must put thoughts of steak and ale pies out of my mind and concentrate on the maze of river channels and footpaths leading through this late summer landscape.



The photo above was taken where we rather randomly sat down to enjoy a banana and take a drink from our water-bottles. If you've got very sharp eyes you might be able to make out a Grey Heron on the opposite bank, just left of the centre of the picture.



We'd started off with clear blue skies which clouded over during the morning. This is pretty much the "sweet spot" photographically with a nice distribution of blue and white.



This wide valley was, for a time during the nineteenth century, a favourite haunt of landscape artists as they attempted to capture the fleeting light and seasons. They were particularly attracted to the old tumbledown watermills of which there were many at that time. John Constable's earlier paintings along the Stour must obviously have had an influence on them.



Tastes change however and you seldom see anyone painting along here now. Even photographers mostly prefer the mountains, coasts and woodlands of present-day Britain. But it's still mighty popular with those who like messing about in boats, large and small.



"Pastoral" would still describe much of this landscape.



These rowing boats, which are available for hire, are the first sign that we are very close to Houghton Mill, which these days is a National Trust property open to the public. You have to book in advance, but we can still follow the public right of way which passes straight through the building, by means of an archway.



Some years ago I wrote a blogpost about the oddly named Potto Brown, a former owner of the mill. It gives an insight into the life of a rural entrepreneur and a fascinating character. It was under Potto's management that the mill enjoyed its height of importance, as it was far more efficient than the other more ramshackle mills dotted throughout the valley.



In time Houghton Mill was largely replaced by large steam-powered mills in St Ives and Godmanchester. For a while after that it staggered along making animal feed for local farms, later it was used as a youth hostel. The mill's decline didn't bother our man Potto in the least - he owned the new steam-powered mills as well!



We then turned away from the main river, but still had to cross another loop of the Great Ouse via Black Bridge at Hemingford Abbots.



The riverside villages are very desirable (and expensive) and the road through the village led past many large houses and mansions before taking us out on to Eastside Common.



The old railway that linked Cambridge and Huntingdon once passed through here and you can still follow the course of the old line in places, though to be honest you'd do a lot better to follow the tarmac path!




Take care.


28 comments:

  1. There is nowhere as beautiful as the English countryside on a sunny day. The photos need no description they are stunning.

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  2. Going on your peaceful riverside walk early on a grey Sunday morning when at a quartr to nine it is hardly light - has started my day off on the right foot - so thank you for that. That first shot of the young swans and their mother is worthy of the front cover of a nature magazine - why not send it off somewhere. I really think your posts, with the photographs, would make a superb book John. Have you ever thought about trying to publish? Oh and did I see poplar trees in the distance in one of your shots - hardly ever see them these days - especially up here.

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    1. Thanks for the compliments but I'll not be trying to publish anything. When I was younger there were still a lot of fruit farms in this area and poplar rows were planted as wind breaks for the orchards. Most of the orchards have gone now but the poplars remain.

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    2. Weaver is right, John. You really have the makings of a magnificent book here.

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  3. Must be my birder’s eye, John, but as I was looking at the picture I mentally noted that it looked like a heron on the far shore. Another great ramble you took us on. I hope the steak and ale pie did justice to your anticipation of it.

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  4. A quiet calm beautiful England captured in your photographs. The rivers of our country can be very relaxing.

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  5. Lovely. We didn't live beside a river (big sigh) but spent a lot of time beside one - following my father as he fished for trout, and swimming in delightfully clear water. If ever I become filthy rich I WILL live beside water.

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  6. Hi John - absolutely stunning walk ... so wonderful to see with such evocative descriptions ... your area is so beautiful - thank you ... cheers Hilary

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  7. What a beautiful and peaceful part of the country! It was a joy to read your blog today. 😁

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  8. Beautiful photos of such a wonderful walk with your brother. I love that photo of the cloud reflection. Yes, a truly awesome sweet spot photo.

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  9. Yes, great fluffy clouds and bright sunshine do make great photos...but then again, the guy behind the screen must take some credit too! Thanks again for a most enjoyable walk with you, as well as your descriptions of the countryside, villages, the history, and a few people!

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  10. Thanks again, John, for bringing me along on your beautiful hike!

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  11. I just read the post about Potto. An interesting and very busy fellow!
    I just love all these walks. About how long was this one? It makes me happy to see these tranquil and rural English scenes, when so much of what I read, and see on British TV makes me feel that it is all disappearing. I know you said you don't drive, but does your brother? Do you get a ride to a place and then walk?
    I wonder if the place where Virginia Woolf died is memorialized?

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    1. The walk was around 4.5 miles, but we didn't hurry! Yes, my brother is the driver, I usually find the walks and do any planning that's necessary. Virginia Woolf drowned in the Sussex River Ouse, a different river. There are at least four rivers in England called the Ouse; it's just an old word for "water".

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    2. Oh, my gosh! I just thought it was a big river that went a long way. Four rivers with the same name?!

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  12. What a nice and peaceful walk and beautiful photos, John. Thanks for sharing.

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  13. Beautiful scenery images as usual John.
    Are you sure you're not related to 'Constable'.?

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  14. So many gorgeous reflection photos. The boats in river is really the superb shot.

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  15. Just lovely. The countryside looks so peaceful. Your pictures really capture the beauty of England.

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  16. The shots with the reflections are simply gorgeous, John. What a wonderful day you had for this hike.

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  17. Hay mucha vida en tus imágenes y unos preciosos paisajes.
    Que tengas una buena semana.

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  18. Thank you for another watery walk with so much interesting information woven around the beautiful scenery

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  19. A leisurely, pastoral stroll, beside a meandering stream - just perfect.

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  20. Another beautiful walk, John, and the thought of going to a Hartford Mill, a local pub would definitely have spurred me on to continue even if the walk was nearly 5 miles.

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  21. Childhood by the river was probably very beautiful and adventures. The pictures are amazing!

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