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Wednesday 12 July 2023

Southern Hills

We drove along looking for the sign announcing that we were about to enter Central Bedfordshire. Not that Central Bedfordshire is an area much praised for its natural scenery, but just past that sign there's a bit of delectable countryside, an outlier of the Chiltern Hills.


We'll start off by walking up Deacon Hill. This blog has been here before, though it was a while ago. Last time we found a whole field of poppies. What would we discover this time?



Right on top of the hill we met a ewe and two lambs. A ewe with a view, perhaps, though her eyes were firmly fixed on some tasty grass.



If these sheep raised their heads for a while they would see that most of Bedfordshire is a flat arable plain dotted with villages and towns. 



There seem to be fewer sheep up here than there once were and it appears that they are moved around on a rotation designed to allow the vegetation and wild flowers to recover. Those purple dots are Pyramidal Orchids.



They are reasonably common on chalky soils like this - if the sheep don't nibble them before they get a chance to flower. We walked on around the head of a short valley; Skylarks sang overhead and Red Kites patrolled the hills searching for carrion.



It was too early to stop, but we stopped anyway! Sometimes you just have to sit and soak up the scenery, especially when someone has gone to the trouble to erect a bench in just the right spot.



There were glimpses down into the valley....



.....as well as a panorama including the flank of Deacon Hill. 

 

We continued on our way, stopping here and there to look down the steep valley sides.



I made a very short detour to meet a Hebridean Sheep. Although sheep can destroy the natural vegetation they still have a part to play in maintaining the landscape: it's all a question of herd density and the kind of sheep that are kept. Several rare breed sheep and cattle are used on these hills.



The long ridge behind Deacon Hill is revealed from this angle. That skinny lone tree on the horizon was passed earlier in the day and gave us a good idea of the route we'd taken.



We passed this fenced off area which at present is ablaze with Rosebay Willowherb, known as Fireweed in some parts of the world. This is also a conservation area, dedicated, believe it or not, to the preservation of "arable weeds". This much maligned group of flowering plants have almost been sprayed to extinction by farmers who are keen to maximise the output from their fields. Some of these plants produce seed which is harmful to humans and, however much you admire the flowers, you really wouldn't want the seeds turning up in your flour.



A telephoto shot shows some buildings down in the tiny village of Pegsdon - that's the way we're heading.



A glance back to where we've been. And that's a Red Kite high above all. Thirty years ago I saw my first Red Kite and I had to travel to mid-Wales to see that, but since those times they've made a remarkable recovery and we usually see one or two on most of our walks.



Across the Pegsdon road we made another loop to take us back to the car.



This is where the poppy field was a few years ago and there are still a few here and there. This little trio were set off quite beautifully by the yellow Bird's Foot Trefoil.



On the other side of the track were patches of Restharrow, a plant which gets its name from the way in which its dense tangled roots caused problems when breaking up the soil with horse-drawn harrows - it literally "arrested the harrows".



At length we arrived at the viewpoint overlooking Knocking Knoll - that's the grassy hillock in the centre of the photo. Someone's bound to ask, so here's the explanation of the name that I gave in the past to one of your questions:

"The story goes that a British chieftain is buried under Knocking Knoll with a chest of money. From time to time he can be heard knocking on the chest to check that it's still there! Or more likely it comes from "cnycyn" an old Welsh word meaning a hillock - I know we're not in Wales but lots of English hills have Welsh elements in their name; the language in the past being spoken over a much wider area".



From there it was but a short stroll through some woodland till we again came in sight of Deacon Hill, with clouds building in the blue sky above it. Soon we were driving towards the village of Great Offley.



Ah, yes. The pub was a lot busier than it looks from here - everyone was in the restaurant ordering their lunch. Despite being part of a national chain of pubs the Green Man rises above the usual quality (and quantity) of the meals in such places. It also exceeds the normal standards of views from the beer garden....




Take care.


34 comments:

  1. What an absolutely beautiful outing. The flowers, the views, the kite - and to finish with a delectable lunch is icing on the cake. Thank you for taking us along - even if you didn't feed us.

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  2. To echo, it was definitely a wonderful walk. The wildflowers 'imprisoned' surely they could get out by their seeds. I wondered if there was corncockle in the field, apparently definitely poisonous to us humans.

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    1. I'm sure the seeds will escape though I presume this site was chosen as it does not directly border onto any arable land. They still spray the fields so it's unlikely to survive long. I didn't see any corn cockle.

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  3. It was hard to choose my favourite picture today John. A lovely walk in countryside so very different from The Yorkshire Dales. Very beautiful those long views and very beautiful that Rosebay Willowherb which doesn't seem to grow much round here. I walked with you as I always do but when all is absorbed and enjoyed my favourite picture has to be those poppies surrounded by my favourite Birds' Foot Trefoil Today it is thriving on my front lawn, fighting with the white clover for attention. Alas - tomorrow the gardener will arrive with his mower.

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  4. I have mixed feelings about sheep. They look peaceful, pastoral and appealing, but they are capable of destroying habitat beyond recognition (perhaps only exceeded by goats in this respect). They have the ability to reduce a verdant meadows to bare soil. I suppose that if proper rotation is maintained their impact is limited. The pub looks very inviting, and given your imprimatur on the food, I would have lunch there with pleasure, especially if I were shown to the table overlooking the valley. In the days when I still ate red meat I had various types of steak pies in English pubs - steak and kidney, steak and mushrooms etc - and for just one occasion I might be tempted to revert to my carnivorous past!

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    1. I've recently been reading "Wild Fell" by Lee Scofield. He's the manager of a farm, owned by the RSPB, in the English Lake District. Their experience suggests that it's the density of the sheep that is the main factor, along with the time of year that they graze the land - after all we once had flower-rich meadows and they were mown every year, but after the flowers had gone to seed. The pub did have tempting vegetarian options, but I succumbed to the charms of the steak-and-ale pie!

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  5. Las ovejas encuentran buenos lugares para alimentarse. Tu también sabes encontrar buenos lugares, para ofrecer lo más bellos paisajes que se han visto.
    Un abrazo

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  6. I agree with Weaver, hard to choose a favorite photo. Here's a question: who owns the sheep?

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    1. I'm not sure who owns the sheep, but several farmers these days have sheep and cattle which they hire out to nature conservancy organisations to graze their land.

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  7. Hi John - stunning part of the world ... and it's interesting how we're learning we don't need to 'flood' the land with animals ... just let things take their course and nature looks after itself. Gorgeous - love the tour and photos - thanks - cheers Hilary

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  8. What a 'cool' story to start my morning here in hot, humid Raleigh where it will reach 92F soon and there is no picturesque countryside with wildflowers and sheep to visit nearby.
    I enjoyed each step you took and felt I was really there with you guys, enjoying the flowers that I loved when growing up in ".......that green and pleasant land." Of course I was ready to find a seat and enjoy a veggie meal at that awesome pub too!

    Thank you for sharing your walk John. Have a wonderful remainder of the week.
    I'm off to water the garden as no rain expected............and those Russian Mammoth sunflowers definitely require a drink to reach their expected 12-14 feet!
    Mary -

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  9. Delightful. Love that countryside, the wildflowers and the sheep! Just about perfect!

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  10. What a lovely hike, John. My favorite photos are the great views of those fields spread like patchwork across the hills!

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  11. These photos remind me of romantic era paintings, so peaceful and pastoral. The rest harrow grows here, I think...it looks very similar to what we call wild sweetpea. The bench looks like the perfect place to rest.

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  12. What a beautiful hike you had there. I love the views, the hills and flowers, and the table ready for lunch at the pub.

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  13. I can see why you would make the effort to climb this hill. there's a beautiful view of the valley.

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  14. I agree with all everyone's said...my favorite wildflower has become poppy. So I'm glad a few were still there. I'd love to have lunch at that pub, and sit and enjoy the view!

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  15. You seem to find the most lovely places for a hike, John. And you take us along.

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  16. Such an incredible place to enjoy scenery. The sheeps seem to be in the zone eating grass. No distractions whatsoever.

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  17. Gorgeous views from the high ground.

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  18. You are true about maintaining the ecological balance and maintaining the landscape.

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  19. John thank you for another wonderful walk.

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  20. wow such beautiful pastures !So green and fresh!I always love your photoes and story that goes with them..specially ""The story goes that a British chieftain is buried under Knocking Knoll with a chest of money. From time to time he can be heard knocking on the chest to check that it's still there!" Very good!wish you still a good summer!Greetings Anita

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  21. “Just” sitting and soaking up the scenery is why we hike! Such beautiful panoramic views, and sheep just shout peaceful to me. Love the photos.

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  22. I thoroughly enjoyed that wonderful walk, the more so since I'm no longer able to tackle the hills and valleys of my younger days. You might be interested to know that one or two Red Kites have been regularly seen over our village over the past 2 years (the village is on the edge of Bodmin Moor in Cornwall). I hope they stay and multiply - but the resident gulls are giving them a hard time.

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  23. Amazing views seem to be just a walk away. Thanks for the narrative to go with your beautiful photos.

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  24. After this hike, John, I would happily have stopped fr lunch at The Green Man and hope that you and your brother did just that. The red poppies and the yellow birds foot trefoil (a fun name indeed) were my favorites today. I was thinking, perhaps incorrectly?. that a red kite is maybe type of hawk so now I will have to check it out.

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  25. An ewe with a view... I like that! Gorgeous wildflowers. The beer garden looks wonderful!

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  26. It does look a beautiful area and lovely to get some far-reaching views. There are lots of red kites around here too. Some were released at Harewood House and have bred and expanded their range considerably over several years. They're lovely birds to watch as they soar.

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  27. That was beautiful, John. Very easy on the eye photos and a relaxing read. I have it in my head that I was taken to some spectacular downland in this area when I was a child - it might have been Deacon Hill, but it looks gorgeous anyway.

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  28. A great day out with such wonderful views. I first saw a Red Kite in Wales too:)

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  29. The first thing that I thought was that those 'hillocks' were a burial site. I remember flying into to Birmingham and my first glimpse of that 'quilt' of fields, each square neatly hedged, and it was such an emotional moment. Something I had always hoped to see with my own eyes was now being seen with my own eyes! Your photos bring that feeling back to me, every time. Thank you for that.

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  30. I have enjoyed this outing but am disappointed at the absence of the lush green, I associate with the English countryside. Yes, I know it can't be picture-perfect all the time.

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  31. What fabulous views on that walk. Thanks for taking me with you. The pub sounds a beauty.

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