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Saturday, 17 June 2023

A Thousand Years Of Cool

In which we step out of the warm sunshine and into the cool space of Barnack Church. 



It's true: parts of this building have been here for a thousand years. Much of this long history is best viewed from outside, but on this warm day we were craving the coolness of the interior where there are many cool things to be seen too.



You enter through the south porch which, like the rest of the church, is built of the local Barnack Rag and roofed with stone from nearby Collyweston.



It's immediately obvious that you're in a very fine church indeed, and the longer you stay, and the more you look, the more wonderful things there are to see. I'll include some of the most appealing, though I'm well aware that there are more things than I noticed, photographed or have room to show you here.



There's this fabulously ornate and gilded carving on the rood screen.



And there's a large and highly detailed east window which needs closer inspection. But also look at the reredos directly beneath the window. I would assume that this is all nineteenth century work. Don't strain your eyes; we can see some of the detail close up...



Here's the Nativity depicted in stained glass.



It's these mosaic angels that really steal the show though.



I would love to know exactly what instrument is being played above. Some sort of zither perhaps.



Stone sculptures, from the very ancient and crude to more recent work can be seen all over the walls. L to R: St Peter with his keys, Madonna and Child, St George. Just look at the tiny raised hand of Jesus - isn't that perfect?



There's some nifty carving in even some of the most inaccessible places, like around the tops of the pillars in the nave. But there's one particular piece of stone that is justly famous....



In the 1930s, when some restoration work was being done, this carved representation of Christ in Majesty was literally un-earthed from beneath the church floor. No one knows how or when it got there and no one is quite sure exactly how old it is. Stylistically it's said to be Saxon, but guesses at its precise date range from 900 AD to 1300AD. Dating it is difficult as there's so little work from this period surviving. It must have once been painted as traces of colour can be seen on the left shin and the torso. 



I've played with the above picture on the computer to make its detail a bit clearer. It's a monument to a husband and wife, who are shown at their prayer desks with their family ranged behind them. The man's hands are enormous, which is supposed to represent his piety.



I'm not sure why, but I don't photograph many pulpits. I liked the way this one fits in with the steps and the items arranged around it.



The font is older than I thought it was - thirteenth century according to the British Listed Buildings website. If you type in the name of a village or town in the UK into Google (or whatever) and add "listed buildings" it will give you a handy map of where the historic buildings are concentrated. Click on any one and you'll get a detailed, though very dry and academic, description of that building. Very useful.



Painted organ pipes, a crudely carved grotesque and a pretty bench end, complete my photos of the interior of the church. Lets go back out into the sunshine.



The bottom two sections of the tower are thought to be the oldest part of the church, dating from around 1000 AD. The upper section and the spire were added about 200 years later. Even so that must make it one of the oldest spires still in existence on a British church.



There's some original Saxon carving both above and below the church clock. It looks like some kind of bird carved just below the clock. Notice also the stones placed vertically on either side, that seems to be a feature of such old buildings.



In fact the more I look at the way Saxons handled building in stone the more I feel that someone had seen it done properly elsewhere and had tried to copy it when they got home. They were of course much more familiar with building in wood and may have used techniques they'd learned there and transferred those skills to building in stone. Even so their methods clearly worked - what's more the tower is also supporting the weight of the stone spire, as well as a peal of bells, neither of which were foreseen when the tower was constructed.



Anyway, this is the door in the tower, still standing straight and square after a thousand years. Which is pretty cool in itself, I think.



We made our way out through the churchyard, which has some elaborately decorated gravestones. Part of the churchyard is being managed for nature, incidentally, but I somehow didn't get any photos of that.



And we'll end with a look back at the church from the village street.


Take care.


21 comments:

  1. Is it not marvellous that churches are tangible evidence of long history. Each stone either left in situ or reused. And also what does it say to craftsmanship through the centuries.

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  2. Though I am not religious, the arts displayed in your photography series are beautiful and profound. You paid the church a good justice with photo make over.

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  3. Wow. And can you think of any 'modern' building that will last a fraction as long - and look as good? No, I can't either.

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  4. A gorgeous little church John - I loved the visit.
    Surprisingly those contemporary blue lights in the first interior photo do blend in and compliment the ancient artifacts.
    The mosaic angels are show stoppers - beautiful faces, colouring, and details.

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  5. I loved those angels so much that I have just looked them up. Apparently they were done by Salviati mosaics of Venice in 1853. The four angels depicted are based on angels they were painted by Fra Angelico during the early Renaisance.

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    1. Thanks, Rosemary. I was puzzled by the instruments, which look so much older than the work itself. Your detective work makes it all perfectly clear.

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  6. It's a fine example of the enduring presence of these little country churches dotted all over Britain. Few probably take the time to visit as you do, John.

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  7. As I read all I could say was Wow! Thank you for all the detail and the background. When we did our Cotswold walk in 2014 we stopped in every church we found open which was most of them. Your posts let me continue to do that because I doubt I'll be walking around Great Britain again any time soon. Thank you!

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  8. I am with Marcia, WOW! Great post, John, and wonderfully detailed photos.

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  9. A beautiful church! As ever, the stained glass draws my eye.

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  10. After all the years, the church still looks beautiful and your photos show all the wonderful details. Thanks for the tour and historical background, John.

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  11. I thoroughly enjoyed this post. The little hand of Jesus is precious but the hands of Mary are exquisite. As are her beautiful lips. I noticed they strategically placed the shield of St George so only needed to carve one hand. His expression is very benevolent, especially as he clearly just slayed the monster on which he is standing. I have heard that many stone masons would sign their work by carving their own faces in a building. Do you think this is a truth? Perhaps sometimes. I love the idea.
    These are lovely pictures and you have taken so much effort. Thank you so much. A wonderful post!

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    1. There are certainly some buildings where the stone-masons carved their faces to sign their work. I remember being shown some once, but I can't recall where it was.

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  12. That is an amazing place. Thank you for the wonderful tour and the great explanations about everything.

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  13. That church has an amazing number of interesting features! That mosaic work is beautiful!

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  14. I love seeing photos of ancient churches! I'm glad places like these get preserved.

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  15. thecontemplativecat here. That is truly impressive. Had no expectations as you went from outside to in. Wow. It is exquisite.

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  16. What an amazing old church. I am always in wonder in how our ancient ancestors built such sturdy big buildings that have lasted thousands of years. Our modern buildings wont last that long.

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  17. What a beautiful church. Surrounded by all that history, you cannot help but think of what those walls have seen or heard.

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  18. Hi John - what a delightful post ... and Barnack church seems to be a lovely place to visit - no wonder you enjoyed your wander around - you've given us some great photos. We have such wonderful history - and you've brought it to life here - cheers Hilary

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  19. A thousand year old wooden door! That is impressive, perhaps more so than the stonework.

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