Travelling through the green countryside, just north of the small Suffolk town of Leiston, the eye is drawn to some ancient ruins standing in the fields. The very observant passer-by might even notice a little brown sign pointing down a farm track, "Leiston Abbey".
Here it is: the most impressive monastic remains in Suffolk. There's no visitor centre, no gift shop and no entry charge. Just a few signs explaining the history of the buildings and, at the moment, numerous steel barriers keeping you away from places where falling masonry might addle the brains even more permanently than trying to understand the complex history of the site. Lets try and find our way around.
In 1363 the brothers moved here from their previous abbey, which was very near to what is now the RSPB reserve at Minsmere, where we'd been earlier in the day. These were the "White Canons" as they were generally known - which is just as well otherwise we'd have to refer to them as the Premonstratensians or the Order of Canons Regular of Prémontré.
Some of the carved stone was brought from the nearby old abbey, so this fourteenth-century edifice has features which you'd normally find in a Norman building. Despite their grand architecture the White Canons followed a life of strict austerity. Unlike the scandal and impropriety found in many religious houses hereabouts, Leiston Abbey seems to have stuck to its stringent rules.
The unvarying round of prayer and labour was brought to a sudden end when Henry VIII closed all the monasteries in 1534. The buildings here came under the control of the Duke of Suffolk. A farmhouse was built into a corner of the nave and many of the associated structures were used as barns and outbuildings.
The house was added to over the years. In 1928 it was all sold to become a religious retreat. Then in 1977 it was sold to the Pro Corda Trust, an organisation dedicated to education of young people through chamber music. It also provides opportunities for young people with additional needs such as those on the autistic spectrum. They still occupy part of the site today, with the ruins being looked after by the charity English Heritage.
We didn't hear any chamber music floating on the summer breezes, more's the pity, as we fumbled our way through the maze of tumbling walls.
I'm fairly certain that the great window shown above was part of the Refectory building where the monks gathered together for their meals, though by this time I'd decided to just enjoy the grandeur of the remains and try to picture what might have been here in the past.
At length we stumbled upon the brick gatehouse which, I think, is where we should have entered the site.
Even after the ravages of the centuries you can still make out some pretty nifty brickwork. In those distant days building in brick was more expensive than using stone, so this gatehouse was clearly designed to create a stunning first impression.
We wandered in the surrounding area, hoping to find a vantage point from where the scale of the whole place could be seen at a glance. It was a glorious afternoon so our ramblings were filled with birdsong and were very pleasurable, if ultimately fruitless.
This old barn, near where we parked, is just one of the buildings which has found a new purpose by allowing young folk to explore the beauties of music. We got in the car and set our course for home.
Our route soon took us down a minor road where I was able to jump out and grab just the kind of view that I'd been seeking.
Take care.
Thank you so much for sharing another fascinating (and beautiful) outing.
ReplyDeleteExquisite - wonderful sense of peace which comes over even in your photographs of the place John. I live near to Jervaulx Abbey which is much more of a ruin than this but is equally peaceful. What are the tiny purple/blue flowers - I thought they were violets but unless their foliage is hidden under the greenery the foliage seems wrong. My eyesight is very poor even with specs - 90 year old eyes are never brilliant. I shall now wander round again with your help - it gave me a feeling which helps the irritation of shingles!
ReplyDeleteThat's Ivy-Leafed Toadflax, Pat. It often grows on old walls. It's not the clearest picture I've ever taken, is it?
DeleteSince there is such a lack of information, John, other than for a few signs, I think you have a job here acting as a tour guide. I am sure the tips alone would measurably increase your income. And since there is no gift shop, Les could be put in charge of that. Finally, I am sure you would have great fun just seeing what people did with the word, "Premonstratensian" - especially having quaffed a cider or two from the gift shop! There is no end to what might be achieved!
ReplyDeleteLots of research to provide your readers the background story. Well done. You captured the place for us.
ReplyDeleteThe red brick looks like sandstone. It has weathered well considering its age. The area is beautifully maintained.
ReplyDeleteThe house I find most interesting. Lovely barn ...and good to know that they are in use
ReplyDeleteThose are very impressive ruins. What a find!
ReplyDeleteSo by some luck there are still some remains left for us to see. It seems that any planning is absent.
ReplyDeleteThe ruins are amazing to see and very impressive.
ReplyDeleteIt is amazing how much of the ruins actually survived the ravages of the ages and the reuse of so many of the materials.
ReplyDeleteA truly beautiful walk there with such ancient histories. Oh if those walls and bricks could talk, the stories would be a delight to hear.
ReplyDeleteFascinating ruins, John.
ReplyDeleteGood old "save it and use it again" construction...or sometimes destruction. I noted the woodwork on the highest level of the building with intact windows...and wonder how old it might be.
ReplyDeleteThe house, which was built into the ruins following the Dissolution of the Monasteries, was updated in the early twentieth century and has been kept habitable since that time. I believe it is now used as accommodation for the young people attending courses at the music school.
DeleteBeautiful to explore! Some parts look like they are ready to crumble, tho.
ReplyDeleteYou have found a perfect vantage point. The last picture is amazing!
ReplyDeleteEsas ruinas, son testimonios de un tiempo pasado, en la que no había maquinarias y todo se hacía artesanalmente. Es una lástima que ese bello edificio, no se conserve en buen estado.
ReplyDeleteThe abbey looks so gorgeous! I love decay and ruins. You photographed it well.
ReplyDeleteWhat a fabulous building and wonderfully it nestles within the beautiful Suffolk countryside.
ReplyDeleteWhat a wonderful place to create music; surely I could hear it through the open window.
ReplyDeleteAre white canons the same as white friars?
No, the White Friars are Carmelites not Premonstratensians. From what I can gather online both orders were involved in preaching and working with the poor. Both groups wore white robes.
DeleteWhat an interesting place. Good that some of it can be used today for a beneficial purpose - and that they don't stop visitors from wandering through.
ReplyDeleteA great find and a fabulous final image!
ReplyDeleteThank you, John, for another wonderful post.
ReplyDeleteI, for one, am glad that you went ahead with a longer-than-you-like post! Leather wall paper. A moat. That furniture is gorgeous. I wandered off midway through this to read about Mary Queen of Scots, an interesting detour. You know what caught my attention, though? The red flowers in the window. I thought, "This must be where the family lives..." and right away, I was off into a day dream trying to imagine what it would be like to live in such a place, to look out your window and see those gardens. What a wonderful post. Thank you once again.
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