Pages

Sunday 2 April 2023

The Odd Couple

I've walked past on so many occasions and always said I'd come back and have a proper look one day. Well, today's the day - and while we're about it I'll pay a visit to its bigger friend, just down the road.



Yes, we're at the church-in-miniature in the heart of Thetford Forest. What we see is a mostly Victorian church that was built for the vicar of nearby Brandon, though there was a church here before and some of it was incorporated into the restoration/rebuild. There was a village here too but all that's left of it are one or two houses near the church and this:



This might be the moat of the one-time manor house. But lets pop inside the little church.



This is the view from the pulpit and, as you can see, there's very little room for a congregation. In 1851 the vicar recorded that the average attendance for the Sunday service was just nine.



That must be the tiniest rood screen you'll ever see, and beyond it lies the smallest of chancels.



There may just be room for two people at the altar rail! Even so it's got a very pretty roof.



Despite its modest size and secretive location, a lot of effort has been put into the restoration and it's been suggested that it may be the work of Augustus Pugin, the leading architect of the Gothic Revival, who also designed the interior of the Houses of Parliament. If not Pugin, then his son, Edward.



There's a very nice window, which not only has strong colours but also has enough clear glass to let some light in and tempt us back outside.



And here we can gaze up at the tiny tower from the equally small churchyard which has just a half-dozen or so graves. One of them records the passing of Crosier Raine - no idea who he was, but I like his name!



There's just room for some flowers too.



Then we'll wander westwards for a mile or so through the forest. This is usually a good place to find Woodlarks, but not, alas, today.



We had to be content with watching the ponies. Then we reached a minor road, crossed a railway, crossed the bridge over the river and made our way into the village of Santon Downham. When we crossed the river we also passed into the county of Norfolk. The little church we saw has the double distinction of being the smallest church in Norfolk and the only church in Norfolk to be in the St Edmondsbury diocese in Suffolk.



Santon Downham is not a very extensive place either having a population of just 240. It's completely surrounded by Thetford Forest and was for many years the headquarters of the Forestry Commission in the area. I presume that many of the present population are still employed in forestry.



The above picture shows you what your SatNav will tell you is the "city centre" of Santon Downham. All you can see, apart from trees, is a bus shelter, some distant houses and the church.



It's an impressive building despite being nearly surrounded by the commercial forestry operations. 



There are some unusual carvings around the base of the tower which apparently record the initials of the wealthy donors who paid for it. But above the south door is this:



It seems to represent a wolf, whose tail has turned into a plant of some kind. Meanwhile he seems to be eating a similar plant. What can it all mean? Wolves and forests go together, I suppose, though this carving must be much older that the forest, which was largely planted in the twentieth century. Lets go around to the north door and see if we can go inside.



It all looks suitably rustic and the door is always open during daylight hours.



Inside you'll find a fairly typical village church. However the more you look the more you realise how it's been re-modelled and restored over the centuries. One of my favourite features is quite modern....



It's a stained glass window showing St Francis surrounded by local birdlife. At his feet is a Golden Pheasant, a breed which was introduced here and flourished for a while, though there are now very few of them. Mention them to Les and he'll tell you how he once saw one near here while I wasn't paying attention and missed it! 



Outside on the green there's a memorial  to the end of the Great War. Even in a tiny place like this three young men were lost in that terrible conflict. But we'll make our way back to the bridge and follow the river back to our starting point.



So here we are on the banks of the River Little Ouse. I really should have taken a picture of the bridge, which had its moment of fame back in the 1970s when Captain Mainwaring and the brave men of the Dad's Army TV series attempted to blow it up. Needless to say it's still standing!


Take care.


30 comments:

  1. I find these small village churches fascinating. The amount of money they must have cost to build yet the congregations would always have been small. I assume it would have given the landowner bragging rights ans secured a place up above. A beautiful ceiling in the small church. I am visiting Norfolk in a couple of weeks to walk the Weavers Way. No doubt you will be familiar with that area. Just hope the sun will be shining that week.

    ReplyDelete
  2. What a lovely walk, the church resplendent with stars in a blue sky. Barley twist pillars at the door as well. And a moated manor house, immediately bringing to mind Tennyson and 'Mariana' and the 'moated grange'.

    ReplyDelete
  3. This church is looking very special. The decorations and the windows are just superb. The carving you have shown are unique as well.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Thank you so much for yet another fascinating wander - one which I would have loved to have been able to be there for.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Such beautiful architecture and skilled workmanship.
    If the congregation was that small in 1851, it was a small place.

    ReplyDelete
  6. By the way I would say yes to Pugin. Whichever one

    ReplyDelete
  7. Ditto Elephant's Child's comment. Your commentary is delightful to read. Your images make me long for a visit to England and its tiny villages.

    ReplyDelete
  8. I'd be willing to bet that when you missed the Golden Pheasant your gaze was directed at something equally appealing, and you probably had the camera pointed in its direction too. So take that, Les!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Actually we were in the car and the bird ran across in front of us. I was tucking my trouser bottoms into my socks, but Les had his eyes on the road, which is, I think, a wise policy when driving.

      Delete
  9. You have to admire the work,a ship on those beautiful old churches. Thank you for this lovely ramble!

    ReplyDelete
  10. The 1st smallest church is so lovely and so well maintained. Once again you took us on a wonderful walk.

    ReplyDelete
  11. What a lovely little church, and well-restored which brings such details to our eyes. Glad to see the bridge was still there (invisible to us, but you stood on it!)

    ReplyDelete
  12. I love all the picturesque, ancient churches you have in your country. Thanks for sharing these.

    ReplyDelete
  13. The churches are still looking great considering their age. It always amazes me that they are unlocked and anyone can get access. I guess that is country living and in the city they would be locked up before it gets dark. Nice walk once again, John. Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Some churches are kept locked - more often in cities than in rural areas, Interestingly those who insure church premises prefer them to be kept open during the day - apparently the chance of being surprised by regular visitors is more of a deterrent to thieves than padlocks.

      Delete
    2. John Vigar an expert on churches in Britain and lives in Norfolk told us that churches that are left unlocked are by far the safest and less robbed than churches that are locked.

      Delete
  14. What a sweet little church. I wonder who pays to maintain it? Here in the US so many historic sites get renovated out of recognition, or torn down. Make me so sad.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It's cared for by the Norfolk Churches Trust who care for 13 redundant churches throughout the county. All of them are open to the public. They get their money from subscriptions, donations, events, legacies, and an annual sponsored bike ride.

      Delete
  15. Es muy bonito el paseo, que nos has dado. Me ha encantado esa antigua iglesia.

    ReplyDelete
  16. Such quaint little churches. We are lucky to have such a wealth of history.

    ReplyDelete
  17. The small village church is lovely and well maintained. Wonderful day for walking!

    ReplyDelete
  18. Those tiny churches are fascinating!

    ReplyDelete
  19. Good they they built buildings out of stone as they last longer or at least long enough so that they can be restored.

    ReplyDelete
  20. Hi John - delightful post and such fun to read ... also to see inside the churches. Gorgeous day you had ... the way life should be in the country - peaceful, quiet and beautiful. Thanks - love it - cheers Hilary

    ReplyDelete
  21. Another lovely walk I wish I could experience in person. Your pictures are beautiful and capture the serenity of the area. Those ponies looked happy! And those churches--so well maintained. Thanks for sharing another adventure with us.

    ReplyDelete
  22. I love those tiny churches. I also love that WWI monument. I had seen one like it. I was thinking in Kirkby in Ashfield, but I cannot find it. I guess I was wrong. But I like that presentation.

    ReplyDelete
  23. Thank you, once again, John. I have just caught up on your last few posts. You have such wonderful places to visit there and your photography and descriptions are great.

    ReplyDelete
  24. What a delightful tour of these churches you have shared, John. The first one was my favorite here. A congregation of nine is really small and so was that nearby town especially the city centre!

    ReplyDelete
  25. Perfectly lovely walk filled with interesting things in such a soothing nature. Among all, I love the little churches, rustic but being taken care of well, clean and beautiful. And the curving path of #12 image, too.

    Yoko

    ReplyDelete

Thanks for taking the time to comment. I'll try to answer any questions via a comment or e-mail within the next day or two (no hard questions, please!).