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Saturday 22 August 2020

Two Fens

 "The Fens" refers to a large area of low-lying land in Eastern England. Most of it is around sea level and it used to flood every winter, making it a magnet for migrating and wintering wildfowl. I use the past tense because most of this area of 1,500 square miles (3,900 square kilometers) has been drained so it can be used for farmland, but there are still small pockets of land that give some idea of what's been lost.

Lakenheath Fen

Alongside many of the rivers entering the Fens the floodbanks are placed well back away from the riversides, so that these areas can still flood in times of high rainfall. The River Little Ouse is in the foreground of the above photo and in the background is flooded land. These floodplains are known locally as "washes" (not to be confused with The Wash which is a shallow coastal bay just north of here).

The traditional way of farming these seasonally flooded areas (both fens and washes) was to put cattle out on them during the summer months, and that's still done in the remaining areas. Even those places managed as nature reserves have seen the necessity of putting some kind of livestock on the drier areas to maintain the landscape; you might see Highland cattle, semi-wild ponies or even water buffalo keeping the land in shape.

While some birds make use of the river, far more settle on the washlands. Swans, being large and white, are easiest to see, but there are many ducks, as well as waders inhabiting the water's edge. 

 

Just a little further from the river the RSPB have their Lakenheath Fen site. Don't be fooled by the name; there's no "lake" at Lakenheath, just a very large man-made reed bed. When the bird charity bought the land, in the mid-90s, it was just a rather poor carrot field. Much of the fertile peat, that was there when the land was first drained, had blown away and it was becoming marginal for agriculture. So the opportunity was taken to try to restore the area to something like fenland. The scheme has proved more successful  that anyone dared hope as birds like Bitterns and Cranes have returned along with many other species. 


It's also a great habitat for many insects like the Large White butterfly and the female Southern Hawker dragonfly that I managed to photograph. And if you get an abundance of dragonflies you often attract Hobbies, which are small falcons which feed on dragonflies, catching them on the wing - a spectacular show if you have the good fortune to see it (though the dragonflies don't enjoy it much!).


Chippenham Fen

Lets make our way to the little village of Chippenham, near Newmarket.


This is what the SatNav refers to as the "city centre"! The little building in the foreground contains the village pump where householders in the past would have obtained their water supply. And behind it stands The Tharp Arms, the village pub; no chance of dying of thirst in Chippenham then.


The town of Newmarket is the centre of Britain's horse-racing industry and you may see superb thoroughbred horses in any of the surrounding villages (though the real stars of the racecourse are rather hidden away behind tight security much of the time).


Around the edge of the main Fens there are several small areas of poorly drained land which are also called "fens" and are used in the same way and are ecologically similar. Chippenham Fen is just one such area which also serves as a nature reserve, but one which is only accessible by the footpath which runs through it.

Wildlife was not making itself obvious so I had to content myself with photographing the berries of the Guelder Rose which is also known as dogberry, water elder, cramp bark, snowball tree or European cranberry bush (Viburnum opulus).

Even without seeing lots of birds it was still a lovely area to walk through; very old-fashioned and traditional, almost like strolling through one of John Constable's paintings.

Take care.


29 comments:

  1. It is interesting that much of Lakenheath Fen and Chippenham Fen have been reclaimed for farmland, but very important to know that much of the local habitat has now also returned. You have caught a great image of the female Southern Hawker dragonfly.

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  2. I have visited these areas (is the term Norfolk Broads synonymous?) and found them fabulous from a birding perspective with a whole range of interesting species, often quite easy to find. It all goes to prove that given the right habitat wildlife will reclaim its realm.

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    1. No, the Norfolk Broads is different in that the peat there was dug for fuel several centuries ago and the hollows thus formed became inundated from nearby rivers. In the Fens the land was exploited for wildfowling, fishing and harvesting reeds, as well as summer pasturelands, until it was eventually drained for agriculture. The Lakenheath Fen area was one of the first to be returned to fenland, though many schemes are now underway to transform small parts of the area to wildlife. It's quite amazing how quickly species such as Bitterns, Cranes, Egrets (Little Egrets initially but this year Great White Egrets have nested too), Marsh Harriers, Hobbies, various Warblers and so on, have recolonised. A migrating Osprey was seen in the area this week, maybe they'll return to breed one day.

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  3. Replies
    1. Yes, fens, marshes, swamps and bogs are all counted as wetlands. The differences are in the quality of the water - freshwater or saltwater, slight acidity or alkalinity, whether it flows or is stagnant - which in turn affects which plants grow and which insects, birds and animals are present.

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  4. Loved your photographs John, especially the Gawker.

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  5. Thanks for the explanation of the fens. Quite interesting. Who wouldn’t enjoy a walk through that area?

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  6. Another fine area for a walk! I'm more familiar with the Broads than this area.

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  7. I was surprised to see water buffalo on a nature reserve in Wales. They look quite alien but obviously do a good job at maintaining the land.

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  8. Beautiful photos, scenic and pretty!

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  9. Beautiful photo of the cranberry bush. Your "washes" look very different from the desert washes that I am used to! Something so interesting and quaint about still having a village pump and village pub.

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  10. Oooh. And ahhh.
    They look like magical areas to walk in - the very best kind of solace and heart balm.
    Thank you.

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  11. It’s the time fot berries again. The ones on your photo are the brightest red!
    Thank you for taking us along with your walk John.

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  12. What a lovely walk that was. Beautiful views and sightings. Thank you for that.

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  13. Oh, my, I loved each and every one of these...then went and looked up John Constable paintings. I so loved them, too. I cannot pic a favorite. But it looks like where you were would have been quiet. It is hard to find places here where one doesn't hear traffic, even if in the distance.

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    1. It's difficult to get away from traffic noise here too and I suppose I've just become used to it - it certainly seemed quieter in the early days of lockdown though.

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  14. Great photos as always but in particular I love the one of the Dragonfly. We used to see lots of them but not these days.

    You mentioned the River Little Ouse. My late husband and I joined 2 kiwi friends for a barge trip on the River Great Ouse. Thoroughly enjoyed it.

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  15. I agree, it was a beautiful walk through absolutely gorgeous surroundings. I have always wanted to visit England because of my ancestry, but I've never had the chance to go. I may never, so your walks and photos are very enjoyable to me. Thanks for bringing me along. You have a super day, hugs, Edna B.

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  16. I enjoyed this walk, John, and you certainly do get some great weather days or perhaps don't go out on the rainy ones? It is on our future list to one day spend time visiting some of the small towns and villages that we see so often not only in your posts, but many British shows we watch. Did you stop at The Tharp Arms after your walk?

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  17. What a wonderful success story for the RSPB. You capture some beautiful photos John, the dragonfly is stunning.

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  18. Beautiful fenland photos especially of the dragonfly, I remember them at Wicken Fen:)

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  19. Super images and post John! Lakenheath is on my 'to do' list! You explain what you see and where you go in such detail!

    Thank you for sharing 'Two Fens'.

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    1. If you get to go to Lakenheath Fen then timing is everything; try to get there in June/July when Bitterns are feeding their young, Hobbies are feasting on dragonflies and you might see Bearded Tits too. Sadly the Golden Orioles that used to nest there are no longer seen.

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    2. Thank you for the extra information, it is much appreciated John.

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  20. How do you know all of these details? Your posts are always so interesting and your photos are terrific! Does it take you many hours to hike, search, and photograph all of this beauty? Do you research where you are going or do you just know it because you have lived there? I do not know such details about the areas where I hike! Thanks so much!

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  21. An interesting area. A bit like our wetlands. I'm glad that some areas have been regenerated. It would be nice to walk through a Constable Painting

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  22. Nice scenes and a lot of great info for the uninitiated John.

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  23. Hi John - lovely to see ... it's historically so interesting - thanks for this overview of life today ... gorgeous photos - take care - Hilary

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