Sunday 9 September 2018

Keys To The Countryside


The season for summer walks is drawing to a close. Soon walking will require a jacket and maybe my waterproof boots, I may carry a flask instead of my water bottle and I'll spend a little more time studying the weather forecasts before I set out. The last time I was in Arkesden in north-west Essex it was that time of year; I trudged through muddy fields and ended up sheltering from a sudden downpour in the village church. I said I'd come back in summer and this week was possibly my last chance in 2018 to do so.



I'll have some photos of quaint thatched cottages to show you in future posts but for now lets gently climb the footpath, which doubles as a farm track, away from the village and out into the fields.



Harvest is over in these parts and the fields are being ploughed and harrowed ready for next year. In places that included ploughing up the footpath as I found to my cost later in the day. You're still within your rights to proceed along the line of the path but the going underfoot is less than perfect and you're always a little uncertain that you're on the correct bearing.  



The church at Wicken Bonhunt is in a delightful setting, especially in the morning sunshine. I almost wish that I hadn't tried to find out more. You see, the church here once had a round tower which, had it survived, would have been very unusual as far west as this. However in the nineteenth century the vicar decided to more or less destroy the old church and rebuild it according to his own design. To make matters worse the tower he built became unsafe and had to be replaced.



The small village did not detain me over long and the path led across the fields towards the much bigger village of Clavering.



We'll have a look inside the church another day. It's a large church for this area and sits in a very large churchyard which stands next to a grassy mound and a deep moat (dry today) which is all that remains of the castle which once stood here. It may be the site of Robert Fitz Wymarc's castle which was mentioned in 1052.



The residents of the village were friendly, though rather bothered by a large number of flies!



The heart of this now large village still has many picturesque corners.



This was the site of a ford and the adjacent cottage is known as the Ford Keeper's Cottage. It's reputed to be the smallest house in Essex.



We took our leave of Clavering by an old sunken road which led us up into the fields once again. Here I indulged in two of the unique pleasures of a late summer walk - eating wild blackberries and stretching out on a stubble field and gazing up into the overhanging branches - before continuing the walk.



Eventually the church at Arkesden appeared above the thatched roofs of the cottages.


Take care.



20 comments:

  1. Wow what a picturesque walk. The photos are fabulous as is the scenery, houses and churches. I lived in Essex for the first 6 years of my life but I only remember a built up area, which now has become part of Greater London I believe. I didn't realise there were beautiful rural areas there too. Thanks for enlightening me.

    ReplyDelete
  2. A great area for a ramble, John. Love all the thatched roofs.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Thanks for the armchair ramble this morning...I can imagine your steps, and certainly appreciate how you found just the right view for each photo...framed so nicely. I would imagine a couple of hours (or more) that this walk took of your day, and it's great that you had such nice weather too, to share with us.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Hi John - what a delightful area to visit with you ... while I sit in much needed thick mist and rain on Vancouver Island. Gorgeous photos ... cheers Hilary

    ReplyDelete
  5. Sometimes when I look at your photos, I think it is possible that you have really taken a walk back in time. The sights you see and share with us are more than miles and miles away, they are centuries as well. Beautiful.

    ReplyDelete
  6. What a wonderful ramble through the countryside. Lots of history stories there.
    Thank you and have a wonderful new week.

    ReplyDelete
  7. I have only visited Essex once John but I was bowled over by the beauty of its villages.

    ReplyDelete
  8. A lovely series, John. What a gorgeous scenery for a walk, especially with the nice weather you had.

    ReplyDelete
  9. Nice views and a thatched roof lover's paradise!

    ReplyDelete
  10. Essex is a very under rated County, a few years ago we visited Brightlingsea and walked the coastline and visited villages, well worth it.

    ReplyDelete
  11. Wonderful walk. I am impressed with the houses and drawn to the lovely wooded pathway, - I would stretch out and gaze into the sky as well!

    ReplyDelete
  12. I just came to your blog from the Weaver of Grass. A lovely walk through English countryside. I was particularly interested to see Wicken Bonhunt church. On a visit back to the U.K. I discovered that my ancestors lived there and my late husband and I visited the village. I have a small leaflet that the vicar must have given me about the church as we ment him when searching through the graveyard. My great-great- grandfather ran the inn there and somewhere I have a photo of the cottage my great-grandparents lived in

    ReplyDelete
  13. Very interesting part of Essex. Thank you.

    ReplyDelete
  14. Thank you for that lovely walk. It makes me long to visit again. I miss you, Cousin. Miss Les too. Just wanting to see you all again, maybe next summer.

    ReplyDelete
  15. Lots to see on this walk, I enjoyed seeing your photos.

    ReplyDelete
  16. I always enjoy a good English countryside walk with you John. So many delightful thatched cottages here, so neatly woven! Make the most of the end of summer weather ✨
    P.s. Merve was there with the other moustachiod members of the stool gang, I couldn't bring myself to sit on them 😀

    ReplyDelete
  17. Love that thatched cottage! Wonderful scenery.

    ReplyDelete
  18. Lovely! Must take advantage before the cold. We got snow already, sadly.

    ReplyDelete
  19. Such pretty villages. Hasn't it been great not getting muddy boots all summer? It's changing now though and we're seeing some yellowing leaves and drizzle.

    ReplyDelete

Thanks for taking the time to comment. I'll try to answer any questions via a comment or e-mail within the next day or two (no hard questions, please!).